T-Shirt-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Clothing-Fit-Guide-4

How Should A T-Shirt Fit?

Just like with polo shirts – if I had a dollar for every poor-fitting t-shirt I’ve seen a man wearing, I’d have two moneybins! So let’s make sure you look amazing in your t-shirts, as well.

When I first start working with clients, I always get pushback when I utter the next sentence, but they later admit I was right when they’re getting complimented all the time.

These rules apply to all men, no matter your age or body type. So trust me on these rules. I’m here to make you look amazing, not like some doofus who’s trying too hard.

Neck Opening

Crew necks are pretty standard, but just make sure it doesn’t fit too tight around your neck, or too loosely. If the collar looks stretched out or you can see some of your shoulder when wearing, that’s too loose.

If you’re wearing v-necks, you need to avoid deep v’s at all costs. Man cleavage is just… no. Some brands will have deeper v’s than others, so be wary of how deep it is. Just make sure the bottom point of the “v” doesn’t go past the top of your armpits and you’ll be fine.

Sleeves

Crew Neck T-Shirt Fit Guide Ashley Weston

The sleeves should hit around mid-bicep and lightly hug your arms. The sleeves shouldn’t be too tight where it looks like your biceps are being strangled. The image below has sleeves that are perfectly hitting the right place and hugging the arm to perfection.

You also don’t want there to be bunch of slack or room around the bicep, either. That just looks cheap and tacky and makes your arms look really small in the worst way possible. If the t-shirt fits well everywhere else, have your tailor slim the sleeves to fit your arms better. I have to do this with clients all the time.

Body/Torso

Armani Exchange Grey Pima V-Neck Tee

Like I say in all my shirting videos & articles, the perfect fitting t-shirt will be when you can pinch (not pull) between 1 to 2 inches of fabric on either side of your stomach, like the image above. This goes for EVERY SINGLE BODY TYPE. A lot of my larger clients fight me on this… until the compliments start rolling in. 🙂

Length

Crotch Measurements

The shirt should end somewhere between upper to mid crotch. I would rather it be closer to mid-crotch than upper-crotch because this avoids showing stomach when reaching up for things and allows it to be lightly tucked into the front of your belt/pants to break up your proportions – if you want.

The Best T-Shirts For Men

See my T-Shirt Essential Article for my favorite t-shirts that every man should own.

Chino Pants Mens Clothign Fit Guide Ashley Weston

Chino & Khaki Pants Fit Guide

Chino & Khaki pants, you know them, you love them, as do I. Now let’s get into how they should fit, regardless of your age or body type.

To see my Chino & Khaki Pants rules that most guys break, see here.

Waist and Seat

Like all your pants, they should fit perfectly around your waist with no need for a belt to hold them up. For chinos, the waist will sit lower than suit pants, but should hit exactly where the waist of your jeans should be – right in between the upper and mid hip-bone area. The image below shows jeans hitting perfectly in the mid-hip bone area. Anything below that will look terrible and sloppy.

Waist2

The butt area, AKA the seat, should lightly hug your butt and not be saggy or very tight. If it feels like you’ll split your pants when you sit or bend down, they’re too tight. If it looks like you’re carrying a full load, you should probably try a different fit or brand. if that doesn’t work, you may also be able to go down a size and see if that fixes the issue. And if that doesn’t work, you can get need get the upper thighs taken in by a tailor to compensate for the extra room in the seat. Just a warning, though, this will cost so much that you can likely get a new pair of chino pants for the same price.
RealMenRealStyle has the perfect illustration of how the seat of your chino pants should fit:

Seat-Suit-Pants-Fit-Ashley-Weston

Legs

Thighs

They shouldn’t fit too tight, but lie comfortably close without feeling like it’s pulling at the knees when you walk or bend down. Unlike jeans, you want a little more room in the thighs. You should be able to pinch a minimum of 1 inch of fabric, but no more than 1.5 inches on either side of your thigh. If you can pinch more than that, try a different style or brand or, if possible, go down a size. As a last resort, you can get a tailor to slim the legs to this size, but just like taking in the seat of your chinos, it’ll probably cost more than buying a whole new pair of pants.

ThighPinch

How long should chinos or khakis be?

A lot of (older) guys think their chinos should fit like long drapes on their legs. Unlike jeans, wool pants and trousers and suit pants, you want your chino pants to be hemmed to leave a slight or no break. Also, unlike your wool trousers, you want them to be hemmed straight across instead of slightly longer in the back.

If you’re thinking about going sock-less with your chinos, then go with a slight break. This enables you to switch it up – if you want a no-break or cropped look, you can just roll them up and unroll them when you don’t want that any longer. It gives you a little more flexibility and versatility.

The gentleman in the right image, wearing sand colored chinos, has no break/cropped pants. The fella on the left is wearing his chinos with a slight break.

The Best Chino & Khaki Pants For Men

See my Men’s Wardrobe Essentials: Chino Pants article and video for my favorite pairs of chinos & khaki pants you should own, regardless of your age or body type.

Polo-Shirt-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Clothing-Fit-Guide

How Should A Polo Shirt Fit?

If I had a dollar for every poor-fitting polo I’ve seen, I’d have my own moneybin! So let’s make sure you look amazing while wearing your polo shirt. As I always say, these rules apply to any man, no matter your age or body type. 

Collar & Neck Opening

The size of the collar isn’t something you need to be concerned with as they’re pretty standard across all brands. Just make sure they’re not too small.

However, do pay close attention to the buttons – specifically, you want to make sure the buttons end no further than the top of your armpits. Anything past that, like the image below, is too long and will look like a super deep v-neck when un-buttoned – not good.

Ashley Weston Long Polo Shirt Buttons

Wearing a polo shirt with the top 1-2 buttons left unbuttoned will help frame your face better and make it look great. So when trying on a polo shirt for the first time, make sure to unfasten the top 2 buttons, regardless of whether it’s a 2, 3 or 4 button polo, to see how the neck opening sits on your body. You don’t want the collar/opening to lay completely flat on your chest like this:

Polo Shirt unbuttoned bad Ashley Weston

You want it to stand up a little bit and have some structure like the image below. But the inverse of that, is you don’t want it so stiff that even when unbuttoned, it doesn’t spread out a little bit.

Polo-Shirt-Collar-Ashley-Weston-Mens-clothing Fit guide

All of images of the different ways to wear a polo shirt in my Essential Polo Shirt Video & article have the perfect neck opening and button placement.

Sleeves

The sleeves should hit around mid-bicep and lightly hug your arms. Some polos have a ribbed band at the end of the sleeve where it’ll hug a little tighter, which is fine, as well. Regardless of this, the sleeves shouldn’t be too tight where it looks like your biceps are being strangled. You also don’t want there to be bunch of slack or room around the bicep, either. That just looks cheap and tacky and makes your arms look really small in the worst way possible. If the polo fits well everywhere else, have your tailor slim them down to fit your arms better.

Sleeves Polo Shirt Ashley Weston

Body/Torso

Like I say in all my shirting articles, the perfect fitting polo will be when you can pinch (not pull) between 1 to 2 inches of fabric on either side of your stomach. This goes for EVERY SINGLE BODY TYPE. A lot of my larger clients fight me on this… until they see how awesome it looks. The “Like This” image above has the right amount of fabric to pinch.

Length

The shirt should end somewhere between upper to mid crotch. I would rather it be closer to mid-crotch than upper-crotch because this avoids showing stomach when reaching up for things and allows it to be lightly tucked into the front of your belt/pants to break up your proportions – if you want.

Crotch Measurements

Tails

Luckily, most designers are getting rid of tails, because I don’t really like them anyways. But if you have a polo shirt that has a tail, make sure the back part is no more than 2 inches longer than the front. Even then, I’d advise you to get a polo without a tail, because 99.9% it doesn’t look so great.

Best Polo Shirts For Men

See my Polo Shirt Essential Article for my favorite polos that every man should own.

How Should Dress Pants and Wool Trousers Fit Ashley Weston

How Should Dress Pants and Wool Trousers Fit?

The short and honest answer for how should dress pants and wool trousers fit is that they should fit exactly how your suit pants should fit, so if this article looks familiar,that’s why. This advice goes for any of these pants: slacks, dress pants, wool trousers, wool pants, whatever you want to call them. Since this is a fit guide, I won’t get into fabric weights here, but it’s a very important point when choosing your dress pants/wool trousers that won’t be worn as part of a suit. See my Wool Pants & Trousers article for details.

Waist and Seat

Dress pants and wool trousers should fit perfectly around your waist with no need for a belt to hold them up. They should hit around the high hipbone area, or even slightly higher. You do not wear wool pants at the same waist as jeans – which are usually designed to sit lower. Saggy pants is a big no no.

The seat, or butt area, should lightly hug your butt and not be saggy or super tight. If it feels like you’re going to split your pants, they’re way too tight. If you’ve got a bunch of extra fabric around the butt, they’re much too loose. A tailor can fix this, it won’t be easy or cheap, but if everything else on the pants fits properly, definitely get it done.

RealMenRealStyle has the perfect illustration of how the seat of your pants should fit:

Seat-Suit-Pants-Fit-Ashley-Weston

Legs

Thighs

You want to be able to pinch around 1/2″ to 1 inch of fabric on either side of your thigh. If it’s less than that, your pants are too tight. If it’s more, have your tailor slim the thighs.

Knee to Ankle

If you’re a thin to regular build, the pants should have a slight taper so that it gets narrower towards the ankle, like the image below. This will look great on this body type/size.

Legs-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Clothing-Fit-Guide

If you’re a thicker/wider guy, you want the pants to be cut straight down from the knee to the ankle – like how your jeans should fit. This will balance your proportions nicely. If you went with a taper here, it’d make you look very top-heavy.

Dress Pants Wool Trouser Fit Ashley Weston

Hem & Cuff

Always default to having your pants hemmed to leave a quarter (also called slight) break. It looks more polished and sharper than a full break and no break at the hem is a time & place kind of thing, and not generally for everyday wear. A slight break works for everyone.

A trick I do with all my clients is to have the tailor hem the pants so that it’s slightly longer at the back of the hem. That way, when you’re walking, you’ll show less sock and when you’re standing still, it’ll lay nicer on the top and back of your shoe.

There are very few times, I’d argue almost never, when you’d cuff your dress pants or wool trousers. I’ve never cuffed pants for a single client because it’s not necessary, no matter their body type.

If you’re not familiar with the different type of pant breaks, PrimerMag has some great images to help you understand:

PantsFit_Breaks-2

The Best Wool Pants And Trousers For Men

See my Wool Pants and Trousers Essential article for my favorite wool pants for men.

The Best Ways to wear Dress Pants & Wool Trousers

See the bottom of my Wool Pants and Trousers article for details.

How-Should-A-Sweater-Fit-Header

How Should A Sweater Fit?

A lot of my clients ask me how should a sweater fit, so I figured it was time to write down my typical answer so you can understand this, as well. These fit rules apply to any sweater, but I’ll use a v-neck sweater in my images below to demonstrate how a sweater should fit on a guy.

A quick note before we begin: Most sweaters are made of cotton, wool, cashmere or blends with other fabrics. This is a problem for tailors because the fabrics are fragile, which makes them very hard to work with, so you should find a sweater that fits you perfectly off the rack, as it’ll be very difficult, if not impossible, for a tailor to fix a majority of sweaters. The only exception are cotton crew necks. Those can easily be tailored.

What do I wear under a V-Neck Sweater or Crew New When Trying On?

It’s important you’re wearing the proper shirts when trying on your sweater so you can get the proper fit.

V-Neck Sweater

When you’re trying on a V-Neck sweater, you should only be wearing a Dress Shirt or Oxford Button Down Dress Shirt because these are the only two shirts that you should ever wear under a v-neck sweater. That means no t-shirts, polo shirts or any other kind of shirt. Just a collared shirt.

Crew Neck Sweater

When trying on a crew neck sweater, you should only be wearing a t-shirt or v-neck shirt because that’s all that should be worn under a crew neck. You might be able to get away with a collared shirt, but it’s not my preference to wear them with crew necks because it usually looks pretty bad.

What a Sweater Looks Like When its Too Small/Tight

I want you to see what a sweater looks like when it’s too small. See the points below for details.

How Should A Sweater Fit TooSmall

  1. Shoulders – If he pulled the sweater shoulder up so his shirt collar was tucked under the sweater collar, the seams would be sitting on top of his shoulders, which means its way too small. You can kind of see the seam sitting way too high on his shoulder on his bent arm side.
  2. Arm Hole – Way too tight, you can see it bunching underneath his armpit. I guarantee it’s incredibly uncomfortable.
  3. Neck/Collar – If he pulled the sweater so the collar was touching his shirt’s collar, the “v” of the neck would go down past the top of his armpits.
  4. Sleeve Length – The sleeves are way too short, which is why he has them pulled up on his forearms in this picture. I know this because (See the next point)
  5. Body Length – The body length is about 2 inches too short. At the shortest point, a sweater should hit past the bottom of your belt buckle.

What a Sweater Looks Like When Its Too Big

How Should A Sweater Fit Too Big

  1. Shoulders – The seams are way past where his shoulder starts sloping down and are just resting on the upper part of his arms – not good.
  2. Arm Hole – Way too big, so it’s making his chest look super wide and baggy with all that extra fabric around the chest area.
  3. Neck/Collar – You can tell it’s too large because you can see his shirt on the sides of his collar. If he pulled the sweater forward, so the “v” rests better against his shirt collar, the “v” would go past the top of his armpits.
  4. Sleeves – They’re hard to see because his hands are in his pockets, but with everything else not fitting properly, I’m sure the sleeves are way too long and not ending at the bend of his wrist. Also, they’re way too big and baggy, which just look floppy and wrinkled in odd places.
  5. Body Fit and Length – I bet if he pulled his hands out of his pockets, the sweater would be way too long and go past the 2 inch mark below his belt buckle. As you can see, there’s excess fabric on both sides of his torso because the sweater is just to big.

How long should a sweater be?

A sweater should end somewhere between just past your belt buckle and no more than 2 inches past that. In a lot of my other fit guides, I usually differentiate the length based on your height, but for a sweater it doesn’t matter. It should hit between those two points for everyone. This goes for all sweaters.

how should a sweater fit

Sleeves

Length

While wearing the sweater – when you bend your wrist, so your palms are facing the ground, the sleeves should end where your wrist ends. So where the white shirt cuff stops in my picture below. A sweater’s sleeves shouldn’t be totally smooth and ripple-free – if it is, that usually means it’s too small. It’s impossible for a sweater to fit like that, so don’t bother trying. Just make sure it ends at the bend of the wrist and not before or after.

Sleeve-Length-Ashely-Weston-How-Your-Suit-Should-Fit

Fit

The sleeves should fit close to your arm, but not so tight that you can see your muscles or the ripples of the shirt underneath (like the sweater that’s too tight above) or so loose that it’s floppy and folding on itself. The model I used was very muscular, but you can’t see his biceps well-defined, or the folds of his collared shirt under the sleeves.

Quick tip: If you’re wearing a v-neck sweater, lightly tug on the sweater sleeve so your dress shirt cuff is sticking out about 1/4″. It’ll have a little bunching near the wrist, that’s fine. As you can see in my picture below, it still looks great.

V-neck-sweater-header-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Wardrobe-Essentials

Shoulders

Like with all your garments in the Essential Series, you want the shoulder seams to hit just where your shoulders start to slope down into your arms. I call this “the natural end of your shoulder”. See the picture below for what I’m talking about – the seam hits perfectly at the point where the shoulder turns into the upper arm.

how should a sweater fit

Body

For any sweater, you want to be able to pinch no more than 2 inches of fabric on either side of your lower rib cage. You also don’t want to be able to pinch any less than 1 inch of fabric, as that’s way too tight. You want it to lightly hug your torso, but not be so loose or tight. This goes for ALL BODY TYPES. I know some of my larger clients fight me on this, but they always come around when they see how much better and fitted it looks. A little rippling in a sweater will always happen, so it’s unavoidable.

Collar

This only applies to v-necks, as crew neck sweaters are all pretty universal. You want the bottom of the “v” to be no lower than the top of your armpits.

Neck Opening

The opening of the v-neck should be just wide enough so that you can tuck your collar tips and they stay in place – like the image above. A wider opening than that would look terrible, as it’ll show too much shirt on the outside of the collar like the image of the too big sweater. For crew necks, they’re a pretty standard size – they shouldn’t be stretched out or show any shirt underneath.

Armholes

They shouldn’t be so high that they’re cutting into your armpits like in my “too small” image or so big and low that it looks like a bunch of excess fabric is around your chest like in my “too big” image near the top of this story.

The Best Sweaters Every Man Should Own

See my V-Neck Sweater Essential Article for my favorite sweaters that every man should own.

Credits

Photography: Justiin Charles
Model: Joseph Boyd at Wilhelmina Models
Hair/Makeup: Brendan Robertson for Exclusive Artists Management using Clarins Skincare and Kevin Murphy Hair Care

How Should A Blazer or Sport Coat Fit Ashley Weston

How Should A Blazer Fit?

The short and honest answer for how should a Blazer fit is exactly how a Suit Jacket should fit, so if this article looks familiar, it’s because it’s pretty much the same advice.

How long should a Blazer be?

The length of your blazer will dictate how “balanced” your upper body is to your lower body. The blazer should end around mid to lower crotch. Mid-crotch if you’re under 5ft 9inches, lower than that if you’re taller than 5′ 9″.

A tailor can shorten your jacket up to an inch without messing up it’s proportions, but they can never really let much out because there’s no fabric there. Overall, you generally want this part to already be perfect when you’re buying a blazer, even off the rack.

Crotch Measurements

Blazer Sleeve Length

While wearing the blazer – when you bend your wrist, so your palms are facing the ground, the sleeves should be about ¼” above the top of your hand. A lot of people recommend that it hits the top of your hand, but that’s bullshit – then none of your shirt sleeve will be showing. This length allows for a little bit (¼”) of your shirt sleeve to peek through. If your sleeves are longer, a tailor can easily fix that. If they’re shorter by more than an inch, ditch the jacket, the sleeves can’t be let out enough to fit properly.

Sleeve-Length-Ashely-Weston-How-Your-Suit-Should-Fit

Shoulders

You want the shoulder seams of the blazer to end where your shoulders end – where they start curving down to your arm, basically. You should see no divots or wrinkles in the shoulders anywhere. The shoulders should lay perfectly flat, with no divots or rumpling or pulling on the shoulders. If you have more rounded shoulders, the seam should still end in the same place, you would just need a little more padding in the shoulders to make them appear less rounded. If the shoulders are too big or small, a tailor will have a very hard time fixing this, and it would be very expensive – if it was even possible. So ensure these fit properly when buying a blazer from anywhere, as well. 

RealMenRealStyle has this awesome graphic showing the proper shoulder fit.

shoulder fit graphic

Body

With the top button fastened (never the bottom button), the blazer should lightly hug your midsection, but not feel tight or constricting. It shouldn’t be pulling at the button, creating an ugly “X”. The X mean’s it’s too tight. If it’s roomy around your stomach/waist area, you can (and should!) have a tailor take in the sides of the jacket so it fits properly. This is a very easy and common fix for a tailor to do. Remember: For tailoring purposes, it’s better to have a jacket that’s slightly too big in the body than too small.

Suit-Jacket-Length-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Clothing-Fit-Guide

Collar

The collar should rest against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest against the back of your neck. All of these should touch lightly, without significant gaps in between. If there’s a gap, it’s too loose. If there’s bunching just under the back of the jacket collar, it’s too tight or the stance of the jacket is off.

Collar-Fit-Ashley-Weston

Armholes

They should be high, but not so high that they’re cutting into your armpit. The picture below shows where the armholes should be on your blazer. Notice it’s not cutting into his armpit? They should be large enough that you don’t notice them, but not so big that you have a few extra inches between your armpit and the bottom of the hole. The arms should be able to move somewhat independently of the jacket’s body during normal motion, but not excessively.

While I’m speaking about blazers and motion, a lot of guys who are new to wearing dress clothes usually complain that they should be able to move their arms more while wearing them. Let me tell you that a blazer is not activewear, so don’t think you should be able to do everything you normally do while wearing a blazer. It’s just not built for that purpose.

Armholes-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Clothing-Fit-Guide

Button Stance

The blazer’s second button from the bottom (aka the top button) should lie just above your belly-button, never below. My rule of thumb is no more than about an inch above and never, ever below. Otherwise it’ll throw off your body’s proportions and you’ll look really odd.

Button-Stance-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Clothing-Fit-Guide

The Best Men’s Blazer/Sport Coats

See my Navy Blazer/Sport Coat Essential Article for my favorite blazers that every man should own.

How-should-an-overcoat-and-peacoat-fit Ashley Weston

How Should an Overcoat or Peacoat Fit?

It’s time to answer the age-old question: How Should an Overcoat or Peacoat Fit? Alright, maybe it’s not age-old, but it’s still important either way. The rules are very similar to how should a suit jacket fit but keep in mind, with an Overcoat, at least, you’ll usually be wearing a suit or blazer underneath it, so the size will need to adjust accordingly.

Before We Begin

When trying on Overcoats, make sure you’re wearing a proper-fitting suit jacket or blazer so you can see how it’ll really fit. Trying on an Overcoat with just a shirt underneath will likely result in getting one that is too small and will look horrible when you’re wearing it with the proper clothing underneath it.

Also, when trying on a Peacoat, make sure you’re NOT wearing a suit jacket or blazer underneath, because like I said in my Overcoats & Peacoats essential article, this coat is not meant to be worn with those items.

Like with almost all your clothing, your coats can and should be tailored, but you always want to make sure at least the shoulders fit, because it’s very difficult and costly for a tailor to fix these, if they can at all.

How Should An Overcoat Fit?

Peacoats-and-Overcoats-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Wardrobe-Essentials-2Shoulders

Even though this will be going over a suit jacket or sport coat/blazer, you still want the shoulder seams of the coat to end where your shoulders end. If the shoulders are too tight or loose, they will be very hard to fix at a tailor’s. You should see no divots or wrinkles in the shoulders, as well. If nothing else, the coat’s shoulders should fit perfectly.

RealMenRealStyle has this awesome graphic showing the proper shoulder fit.

shoulder fit graphic

Sleeves

With your arms straight down, bend your wrist, so your palms are facing the ground, the sleeves should lightly touch the top of your hand. This length will cover anything you’re wearing underneath – which is what you want with a coat.

The picture below is from my How Should A Suit Fit? article, but I wanted to show you what I’m talking about when I mean palms facing the ground. Where the white shirt cuff is hitting is where your coat sleeves should be hitting. Just enough to cover it, basically.
Sleeve-Length-Ashely-Weston-How-Your-Suit-Should-Fit

Body

When buttoned, the coat should not be roomy, but should lie close to your body. That being said, it should be in no way taut or feel constricting on your chest or midsection when wearing it over a suit or blazer.

This picture below (of the same coat my model is wearing, by Brooks Brothers) perfectly illustrates how it should fit in the body. He’s only wearing a sweater and Oxford dress shirt underneath, so it’d fit a little tighter in the body if he had on a suit or sport coat/blazer.

ML00401_GREY_2

Lapel Width

For Overcoats, the lapels are pretty standard width, so this is a non-issue. The lapels on the Brooks Brothers Overcoat above are a little wide, but they’re still very acceptable.

How Long should an overcoat be?

No matter what climate you live in, it should end somewhere above your knee – never longer. A good rule of thumb is mid-thigh to just above your knee is where your Overcoat should hit. If it needs to be longer because it’s too cold, then it’s time to throw aesthetics/fashion out to the window and go full Constanza Gore-Tex.

How Long Should An Overcoat Be

 

How Should A Peacoat Fit?

Overcoats & Peacoats Ashley Weston

Shoulders

Just like with Overcoats, you want the shoulder seams of a Peacoat to end where your shoulders naturally end – where they start curving down to your arm, basically. You should see no divots or wrinkles in the shoulders anywhere. The shoulders should lay perfectly flat, with no divots or rumpling or pulling on the shoulders. If you have more rounded shoulders, the seam should still end in the same place. If the shoulders are too big or small, a tailor will have a very hard time fixing this, and it would be very expensive – if it was even possible. So ensure these fit properly before buying your peacoat.

RealMenRealStyle has this awesome graphic showing the proper shoulder fit. Even though it’s for suit jackets, your Peacoat shoulders should still look like this when the jacket is buttoned.

shoulder fit graphic

Sleeves

Just like an Overcoat: With your arms straight down, bend your wrist, so your palms are facing the ground, the sleeves should lightly touch the top of your hand. This length will cover anything you’re wearing underneath – which is what you want with a Peacoat.

The picture below is from my How Should A Suit Fit? article, but I wanted to show you what I’m talking about when I mean palms facing the ground. Where the white shirt cuff is hitting is where your Peacoat sleeves should be hitting. Just enough to cover it, basically.

Sleeve-Length-Ashely-Weston-How-Your-Suit-Should-Fit

Body

When buttoned, the jacket should lightly hug your midsection, but not feel tight or constricting. There shouldn’t be a whole lot of “play” if you were to put your hands in the jacket and pull forward. The jacket shouldn’t be pulling at any of the various buttons on the front, making any creases in the front. If it’s very roomy around your stomach/waist area, you can (and should!) have a tailor take in the sides so it fits properly. Remember: better to be slightly too big than too small.

Quick Tip: When wearing your Peacoat, leave the bottom two buttons unbuttoned. It allows the coat’s bottom to flow better when walking or sitting. Buttoning a Peacoat all the way down is very odd looking and never done by anyone but a rookie.

Lapel Width

For Peacoats, the lapels are all standard width, so this is a non-issue.

How Long should a Peacoat be?

Unlike the Overcoat, a Peacoat should hit anywhere from mid to lower crotch. On my model, above, the Peacoat ends right around lower crotch. Anything longer than that wouldn’t be acceptable. Anything longer than lower-crotch or shorter than mid-crotch would throw off the proportions of your body and make you look weird. Balancing proportions is a mistake a lot of guys make and can really influence how big or small you look in clothing.

Crotch Measurements

The Best Overcoats & Peacoats for Men

Check out my Men’s Overcoats & Peacoats essential article for my favorite coats for men of any age or body type and the different ways to wear your Overcoat and Peacoat.

Credits

Photographer: Justiin Charles
Model: Joseph Boyd at Wilhelmina Models
Hair/Makeup: Brendan Robertson for Exclusive Artists Management using Clarins Skincare and Kevin Murphy Hair Care

Casual-Belt-Header-Ashley-Weston-Mens-Clothing-Fit-Guide

What Size Belt To Buy

This article is part of my Men’s Clothing Fit Guide.
I see a lot of belt tragedies out there in my everyday life. So let’s get this settled once and for all and show you what size belt to buy. This will ensure we never have to talk or think about it ever again!

What Size Belt To Buy?

This is pretty straight-forward. Take your pants waist size and simply buy the next size up from that.

So if you’re a 34″ waist, buy a 36″ belt.

This will leave the perfect amount of belt left and won’t look too short or too long. See my graphics below for how your dress and casual belts should look while you’re wearing them.

The Proper Width & Lengths Of Your Belts

I talked about this in my Essential Belts story, but I’ll reiterate here, as well.

Dress Belts

You want the width to stay as near to 1.5″ as possible. Anything wider will be more bulky and is considered more casual. Anything slimmer than that is a woman’s or a fashion belt and that’s not what we’re going for here. Even though the width is only slightly smaller than a casual belt, it makes a huge difference in appearance. Compare this picture of a guy wearing a wider belt as a dress belt compared to the image of my model. Night and day, in my eyes even though it’s only about half an inch difference.

Dress Belts Too Short Long Thick - Ashley Weston

Casual Belts

Have your casual belt somewhere between 1 3/4 – 2″ wide. Anything more than that is too wide and will look out of place. Slimmer than that looks more like a dress belt.

Casual Belts Too Wide and Long - Ashley Weston

The Best Mens Belts To Own

Check out my Men’s Wardrobe Essentials – Best Dress & Casual Belts story for details about my favorite belts that every man should own.