Best Men's Overcoats & Peacoats Ashley Weston

Overcoats & Peacoats

If you live in a climate where the temperatures drop during the winter, you’re going to need a coat or two. So let’s talk about Overcoats & Peacoats. They’re not to be confused with a jacket or windbreaker or whatever other sorry excuse for a coat I see guys wearing during the winter months. You need a proper coat that’ll look sharp and timeless and last many, many seasons. Your coat is the first thing anyone is going to see (aside from your shoes and a scarf) during the winter months, so let’s make sure you look amazing.

Common Overcoat & Peacoat Mistakes

In my travels, I see a lot of Overcoat blunders, so let me go over the common mistakes I see guys making with their coats before we dig in.

  • Too Boxy
    This makes stocky men look really wide and/or short and thin guys look even thinner.
  • Too Long
    This would technically fall under fit, but it’s such a big problem that it deserves it’s own section. Your overcoat is designed to go over your clothing, not be a blanket you threw over yourself! The worst is when I see guy’s sleeves going past the beginnings of their palms or their coats hitting mid-shin. If a coat goes past your knees, it’s going to collect dirt, mud and salt stains on the bottom – gross!
  • Too Complicated
    Some of my male friends suffer from this: They just have too much stuff going on with their coats. As I mentioned in my first #AskAW episode, you don’t need epaulettes/shoulder straps, sewn in sweaters or hoodies or a bunch of pockets or zippers or… things hanging off your coat. It looks cheap and tacky.
  • Too Trendy
    Even though I work in the fashion industry and attend the various Fashion Weeks around the world, good lord, there’s some jackets I see guys wearing on the street and I just wonder what happens once it goes out of style in a few weeks. I would never recommend something trendy as a Men’s Wardrobe Essential because you’ll probably only get one winter’s worth of wear out of it.
  • Not Appropriate For the Climate
    If you live in a warmer climate and are wearing a long overcoat without a suit, you look silly. There’s a time and a place for everything and it’s important to understand this in all things, but definitely in regards to coats. See below for details on when it is or isn’t appropriate to wear your coat.
  • For more style mistakes, check out my free “10 Most Overlooked Men’s Style Mistakes” and how to fix them ebook.

What Coat(s) Should Men Own?

A man should own at least one of these two coats, maybe both. See below to determine whether you need one or both coats in your closet.

Overcoat

There’s two factors to determine whether you should own an overcoat:

  1. Does it snow where you live?
    An overcoat is an essential if it snows where you live because it’ll cover more of your body and be a great coat to layer clothing under to keep warm on the colder days.
  2. Do you wear suits often?
    If you wear suits (like a gray suit), regardless of your climate, you need an overcoat because this is the only coat that compliments a suit. A Peacoat won’t work with a suit because (if it fits properly) it’s too short to cover a blazer or suit jacket as well as too casual for this type of outfit.

Peacoat

Every guy, regardless of his climate or whether he wears suits regularly or not, should own a Peacoat because it’s great for casual outfits in your Essential Wardrobe. If you live in a colder climate, it’s also great for warmer winter days and through the early parts of Spring. Notice I’m leaving out Fall. This is because that’s when a Blazer, Leather Jacket and Harrington Jacket really shine. For moderate/warmer climates, like Southern California, a Peacoat will be your “winter” coat.

Double-Breasted or Single-Breasted Coats?

A proper Peacoat is always double-breasted, so that’s not an issue.

As for Overcoats, stick to a single breasted coat because a double breasted Overcoat would require you to wear it buttoned 24/7 since it looks really big and floppy when it’s left unbuttoned. Single breasted gives you the option to wear it buttoned or unbuttoned while still looking sharp and form-fitting.

The Best Overcoat & Peacoat Colors For Men

For Peacoats, you want to go with the classic Navy color. For Overcoats, you can go with Navy, Camel (tan), Black or Dark Gray. If this is your first Overcoat, go with Dark Gray or Black. If it’s your second, get a Camel Overcoat to inject some color into your wardrobe, as it’s still a neutral color that will go with the rest of the Men’s Wardrobe Essentials.

How Should An Overcoat or Peacoat fit?

Check out my Overcoat & Peacoat fit guide for how a man’s coats should fit.

The Best Men’s Overcoats & Peacoats

Designer Options

I chose these coats because they all have a great tailored fit and the material, coat length, lapel width, buttons and the overall construction of them is impeccable. I love the Brooks Brothers charcoal Overcoat, which I actually used on a recent shoot with Harrison Ford, and I was amazed at how well-designed this coat was. The Burberry and Billy Reid Peacoats are my favorite Peacoats of all time! The details are incredible and they’re flattering on every man. An interesting fact: The Billy Reid coat is named the “Bond” coat because it’s the exact one Daniel Craig wore in “Skyfall.” The Burberry runs on the slimmer and slightly longer side, so if you have a shorter and wider build, then this may not work for you, although my model (below) was wearing it and he was quite “built”, so YMMV (your mileage may vary).

Brooks Brothers Charcoal Saxxon Overcoat

Acne Studios Charcoal Coat

Theory Delancey Double-Faced Cashmere Overcoat

Saint Laurent Camel Coat

Burberry Navy Peacoat

Billy Reid Navy “Bond” Peacoat

Budget-Friendly Options

Each of these coats has a simple and clean design with no unnecessary flourishes, which you’ll usually find with cheaper alternatives. The price point is great for these considering they’re wool and wool-blended coats and will keep you warm and looking sharp. I love the Topman Camel Overcoat a lot, which is why I used it on my model below!

Topman Camel Overcoat

J.Crew Charcoal Ludlow Topcoat

Zara Navy Coat

Topman Navy Wool Blend Peacoat Jacket

3 Ways to Wear Overcoats & Peacoats

Best Men's Overcoats & Peacoats Ashley Weston

Topman Camel Overcoat

Topman Navy Skinny Three Piece Suit

Brooks Brothers – Non-Iron Milano Fit Bengal Stripe Dress Shirt

The Tie Bar Deep Burgandy Silk Knit Tie

The Tie Bar Colored Tie Bar

Allen Edmonds Carlyle Plain-toe Oxfords

Best Men's Overcoats & Peacoats Ashley Weston

Brooks Brothers Charcoal Saxxon Overcoat

Z Zegna Navy Drop 8 Two-Button Blazer

Tommy Hilfiger – Men’s Slim-Fit Poplin Shirt

Topman – Selected Homme Grey Pants

The Tie Bar Grenafaux Midnight Navy tie

The Tie Bar Silver Shot Tie Bar

Allen Edmonds Carlyle Plain Toe Oxfords

Overcoats & Peacoats Ashley Weston

 

Burberry Brit Navy Peacoat

Tommy Hilfiger – Men’s Slim-Fit Poplin Shirt

Topman Selected Homme Grey Pants

The Tie Bar Knit Stripe Tie

Allen Edmonds Carlyle Plain Toe Oxfords

Men’s Overcoat & Peacoat Outfit Inspiration

Credits

Photographer: Justiin Charles
Model: Joseph Boyd at Wilhelmina Models
Hair/Makeup: Brendan Robertson for Exclusive Artists Management using Clarins Skincare and Kevin Murphy Hair Care

Shades of Brown For Fall

Although the sport coat in the above picture is grey, I’m still recommending a similar outfit but with a brown jacket instead.

September is a tricky month because we’re between seasons, so the weather can be blazing hot one day and chilly the next. This shades of brown outfit will keep you cool during the warmer times and cozy during the crisper days.

A tweed sport coat is the perfect transition piece during this time. Wear with a grey t-shirt, slim khaki chinos (either cuffed at the ankle or not), and brown suede lace-ups during warmer days. When it gets chillier, throw a grey sweater underneath and finish with a chocolate knit scarf.

 

Designer Option: 

 

Billy Reid Virgin Wool Dorsey Blazer in Rust, $1095
Diesel ‘Tossik’ V-Neck T-Shirt in Light Grey, $55
Vince Five Pocket Stretch Cotton Pants in Khaki, $195
John W. Nordstrom Woven Leather Belt in Brown, $65
Allen Edmonds Fifth Avenue With Combination Tap Sole in Bitter Chocolate Suede, $385

 

 

Budget-Friendly Option:

 

Topman Camel Flannel Skinny Blazer in Brown, $140
Topman Grey Classic V-Neck T-Shirt in Mid Grey, $10
Bonobos ‘The Khakis’ Slim Tailored Washed Cotton Chinos in True Khaki Beige, $88
Fossil Drew in Brown, $40
Aldo Giulio in Brown Suede, $110

 

How To Dress A Celebrity: Go Behind-The-Scenes With A Celebrity Menswear Stylist

Have you ever wondered what goes in to styling a client for a big event? I’m going to take you on the inside – from the moment I’m booked on a job to lint rolling the client’s outfit before they step onto the red carpet.

Monday, 11am:
I receive a call from a member of my client’s team that an outfit is needed for a big event they’re attending on Thursday. Crap, that’s only 72 hours.
We’ve got only one day to pull looks (outfits) from the designer’s showrooms (where their latest collections of clothing are held for magazine shoots and celebrities to use) before the fitting (when the client tries on the looks for the first time) takes place on Wednesday.

My team and I immediately get to work putting together a mood board.

billy reid, burberry prorsum, jil sander, gucci, fall 2012, runway collection

With all the great Fall pieces to choose from this season, I decide to steer away from the norm of a suit. It’s important that my clients always stand out from everyone while still ensuring the look is an honest representation of their personality. For this event, my team and I took inspiration from Paul Newman.

image

Newman’s easy going style was an art form that all men should embody.

We decide a jacket with a strong collar layered over a sweater will be the foundation of the look. We come up with a bunch of possible combinations. Should we pair a grey cowl-neck sweater from Billy Reid with a leather jacket? Or how about a camel cowl neck layered over a button-down shirt and tie as seen on Burberry’s catwalk? Paired with a charcoal blazer? Perhaps Jil Sander’s classic black crewneck sweater and dress pants is effortless enough? A merlot sweater? After looking through designers’ lookbooks (a picture book of the season’s newest looks) for the right pieces, we race off to email and call showrooms to request the pieces. We’ve got only an hour before the NY showrooms close for the day.

Tuesday, 6am:
Between gulps of coffee, I’m calling New York showrooms, confirming the looks we requested the day before will be sent out in time to arrive at our office by noon tomorrow – just in time for the fitting with the client. My team and I then set about running around LA, securing (we call it “pulling”) clothes from designers who have their samples here in LA. It’s important to not entirely depend on samples coming from NY, in case some of the packages don’t arrive on time… or at all. Always, ALWAYS have a backup, especially if the packages are coming from NY. Too many variables can happen – bad weather, theft (this has happened a few times) and other acts of God.

Wednesday, Afternoon:
24 hours before Thursday’s event. The team and I gather all the looks – luckily, all the NY packages came on time (whew) – and load them into our cars to meet the client wherever they are – if they can’t meet at my office. Typically, the fitting can go one of two ways: One of the looks works perfectly without any fuss or the looks aren’t winners and I quickly rework the looks based on my intimate knowledge of the clothing and my client’s personal sense of style.

Once agreed, the clothes are pinned into place – this shows my tailor exactly where things need to be taken in, hemmed, etc. The outfit is then rushed to alterations. My tailor is used to my last minute requests. Everything is always urgent in this profession.

Tip: If you’ve ever wondered why stars looks so great on the red carpet, the biggest factor, aside from a few others, is having every piece of clothing altered to fit them. Whether off the runway or off the rack, clothes never fit perfectly. GET. THEM. ALTERED.

Thursday, Afternoon:
A few hours before the big event the finished pieces are picked up from the tailors and rushed to the client’s house. You’re probably thinking “Why do stylists need to be there when all the client has to do is put on the clothes and leave?” In a perfect world, that’s exactly how it’d be. But this isn’t a perfect world, so we’re there to ensure everything is absolutely perfect. In menswear, the smallest details are extremely important. The pants have to be cuffed at just the perfect length, the buckle of a belt positioned just right, the shirt tucked in just enough, I could go on for days…

With one roll of the lint brush, the look is complete and they’re on their way to walk the red carpet.

Definitely my favorite moment of the entire process is seeing pictures of that final look on the red carpet – it’s such a great feeling to see my clients look effortless, polished, and 100% true to themselves!